CRAFT BEER TOUR OF BERLIN

Visit Date: April 2015

BREWPUBS VISITED: Brauhaus Georbraeu, Circus Hostel Brew Co. and Pfefferbräu

WEBSITE:  http://www.brewersberlintours.com/craft-beer-n-breweries

DATES: Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday

COST: £25.00 including tasting and tour, per person

DURATION: 3 Hours (starts at 7pm)

FURTHER INFORMATION: An AB travel ticket is needed for the tour (not included).

Berlin has a long brewing history, but many traditional breweries and bars disappeared following World War II and the city’s division during the Cold War. Now, new breweries and brewpubs are reinventing traditional beer styles, and resestablishing Berlin as a brewing city once more. 

Our host Jonathon was a great engaging and knowledgable guide not only to Berlin itself, but also the beer culture and knowledge of the city. We started off with a traditional pretezl before embarking on a short U Bahn ride to Alexanderplatz, where Jonathon highlighted the architecture and history of the old East Berlin. Our first calling point was Brauhaus Georbraeu. Apparently one of the oldest Berlin brew houses, it dates back to the early 1990's! The surrounding buildings reflected the 1980's style of architecture as it was an area built by the GDR to increase tourism from the west and in turn make some money. The brew house is located in Nikolai Quarter, in the Mitte area and right on the banks of the River Spree near museum island - idyllic. Each year almost 1,500 litres of Saint George pilsner are brewed, which is exclusively available in the Georgbraeu. Georgbraeu is a typical large brewery bar which serves traditional German food. The place itself is very nice with a lovely wooden interior, and lots of small alcoves and side rooms. There is a large outdoor area too but it was early March, so no way we could use that! As for the beer, well the dunkel was heavenly, and the food being served looked pretty good as well.

Our next calling point was certaintly in stark contrast the Katz and Maus Tap Room serving the flavoursome pilsner brewed by the newly formed microbrewery - Circus Hostel Brewing Company, located in the Rosenthaler Platz. The microbrewery has only been in existence since January 2014 thus making it one of the most recent addition to the craft beer scene, Heiko the brewmaster only uses the finest hops and barley and adheres to the German Purity Laws of 1516. The bar has a very relaxed and friendly feel with a libaray of books to sit and read, while the walls are decorated with a variety of illustrations demonstrating the brewing process, and if you wish to know anything about David Hasselhoff, then the shrine to him in one of the back rooms is a sight to behold...once again the Pilsner is brewed on site.

Unfortunately we had to move on to our final location. However we were not disappointed as we landed on the doorstep of the Pfefferbräu Restaurant and Brewery Mountain, which has received a lot of press attention and deservedly so being one of the first micro breweries to bring back brewing to the traditional heartland of the Berlin brewing region Pankow

We just had to try the Alt (dark brown colored with a small off-white head, and hoppy finish), the Helles (hazy amber colored with a small white head) and not forgetting the Dunkel, we took great delight in discussing them, and generally had a fun time.

In conclusion the tour is lighthearted with a few set discussion topics, which is what I enjoyed about it the most. Additionally, I would distinguish this from the more-common pub crawls. This was a quieter time that focused more on good beer, good company, and good conversation. So, I would recommend getting on a Brewer's Brewery tour if you ever find yourself in Berlin. It is a great way to see some of the less tourist areas of the city and to learn about the rich brewing, political and economic history of one of the most unusual european cities.


THE BERLIN TRILOGY - THE BOWIE BERLIN TOUR

Visit Date: April 2015

TOUR DETAILS: Berlin Music Tours

WEBSITE: musictours-berlin.com

DATES: Sundays - extra dates and times possible on request

TIME: 12.00 Midday

COST: £12.00 (approx)

DURATION: 3 hours

CONTACT: +49 (0)30 3087 5633

It is suggested that the three albums (Low, Heroes, Lodger - although technically Lodger was recorded in Switzerland) David Bowie wished to write and record, along with Brian Eno in Berlin are his most creative. It was a period in his life whereby he was totally absorbed by his cocaine habit while living in LA and therefore he decided that it was make or break time. After a lack of success to convince Konrad 'Conny' Plank (music producer who has worked with the likes of Kraftwerk, Ultravox, DAF, Neu, amongst others and lived in Dusseldorf) to produce his new albums that, he looked further a field, and found that the Hansa Studios in West Berlin was an ideal location to help him redefine his life and career.

We have visited Berlin on numerous occasions but always seem to run out of time. On this trip we were determined to book onto the Bowie Berlin Walk once and for all. From the moment we organised the tickets with Thilo to the time we arrived to meet Phillppe, the whole process was friendly, helpful and extremely informative. 
 

Once we arrived at our meeting point, from the word go, Phillppe's passion for both the city and Bowie was evident. Starting outside the Martin-Gropius-Bau we discovered the location of some scenes from the 'Where Are We Now' video. The first part of the tour was spent recreating the reason for Bowie's choice of Berlin, what the lifestyle was like, the political landscape and the surrounding influences that Bowie experienced in this strange isloated city (due to the wall surrounding western Berlin). Moving on, Phillppe recounted the story of 'Heroes', and the real inspiration behind Bowie's all time favourite track. From the outside of the famous Hansa Studio, (which is still in use, -  only recently The Manic Street Preachers completed Futurology,) we were shown how it nestled close to the wall and was surrounded by derlict buildings back in the day.

Famed by the single Where Are We Now? from the Next Day album

Famed by the single Where Are We Now? from the Next Day album

one of the gateway stations to the old East Berlin

one of the gateway stations to the old East Berlin

The tour is well constructed and thought through, at intervals a few well chosen lyrics would be dropped into the presentation which kept our party on our toes. Nothing was rushed or dismissed, Phillppe was extremely inclusive considerate and professional. The ancodes never stopped, and the wealth of 'inside information' from one of the music engineers that worked on the 'Heroes' album with Bowie, were both funny and insightful. Throughout the talk we were shown imagery pertaining to the various stop points, along with both continued political and historical references to further understand the time of Bowie's stay while in Berlin. 

The tour concluded (unfortunately) far too quickly, with a rather 'refreshing' surprise ( you will have to go on the tour to see what that is..) Regrettably we missed out on the Hansa studio tour ( which was on our day of departure) but would love to do that next time.

The famous Hansa Studios

The famous Hansa Studios

Entrance panel to Hansa Studios

Entrance panel to Hansa Studios

I would throughly recommend the tour, and if like me, you grew up listening to the Berlin trilogy religiously then this is a tour not to be missed. Great insight chaps, keep up the good work.
 

Bowie and Iggy's flat today in Kleistpark area in Schöneberg - Hauptstrasse 155


KÖLN AND KÖLSCH BEER VISIT

While traveling around Germany we found ourselves 'stranded' in Köln (Cologne), so if you ever find yourself in Köln may I suggest one or two places to visit (this is by no means a detailed list, but it does cover one or two venues that serve the unique Kölsch beer). Unfortunately the weather wasn't the best so the imposing Cathedral was unfortunately shrouded in mist, however this didn't dampen our plans...

In 1985 the 24 breweries of Cologne gathered to create the 'Kölsch Konvention' which stipulates that Kölsch is brewed within the Köln metroploitan area and brewed according to the German Purity Law of 1516 (beer can only be brewed using simply water, barley and hops), it is pale in colour, top-fermented, hop-accented, and filtered, with alcohol by volume ranging from 4.4% to 5.2%.

The term Kölsch was offically used in 1918 to describe the beer brewed at the Sünner Brewery, however there appears to be a few definitions of the meaning of the word, whether it is to refer to the local dialect or whether it refres to the beer style itself is open to interpretation. Kolsch never really gained popularity in the first half of the twentieth century as bottom-fermented beers proved more popular. It wasn't until the 1960's that the sales of Kölsch started to climb. After the second world war only 2 breweries remained however that number has steadily increased.

So what is Kölsch? it is clear, with a bright straw yellow hue, and is not overly hoppy, it is less bitter than the standard German pale lager though. Traditionally it is served in a tall, straight, cylindrical 200ml glass called a Kölsch-Stange, and the best place to taste it...in an orignal 'Brauhaus' (the traditional German pub where the beer is brewed). Be aware though, the 'Köbes' serve this fantastic ale one after another so if you don't say 'no' and put the beer matt on top of your glass, they just keep coming!

In no particular order here is a simple list of the places we visited, oh, and best to check opening times as they can vary:


Früh am Dom

Köln Hbf 400m    Am Hof 12-14    50667 Köln    T: 0221 261 3211

http://www.frueh.de


Gaffel-Haus

Köln Hbf 600m    Alter Markt 20-22    50667 Köln    T: 0221 257 7692 

http://www.gaffel.de


Sion

 Köln Hbf 450m    Unter Tashenmacher 5    50667 Köln    T: 0221 257 8540

http://www.brauhaus-sion.de


Peters

Köln Hbf 500m    Mühlengasse 1    50667 Köln     T: 0221 257 3950

http://www.peters-brauhaus.de


Pfaffen

Köln Hbf 700m    Heumarkt 62    50667 Köln    T: 0221 257 7765

http://www.max-paeffgen.de


Sünner im Walfisch

Köln Hbf 450m    Salzgasse 13    50667 Köln    T: 0221 257 7879

http://www.walfisch.net


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